Sri Lanka, of late, has become the hot seat of travel, with every other travel influencer touting it as the next Bali. Surfing along the waves of such viral content on social media, we ended up deciding to spend the last week of 2024 in Sri Lanka.
We were four families on the trip, travelling with our children – including a tiny tot, and hence the itinerary was a relatively non-taxing and freewheeling one, that allowed us to pick and drop places of interest as per our convenience.
The first location to gain a confirmed position on our itinerary was Kandy, the cultural hub of Sri Lanka. We believe that there is no better way to connect with a new country than by experiencing its culture and heritage firsthand.
Where to Stay in Kandy
Located in the highland region of central Sri Lanka, Kandy is a city steeped in history, spirituality, and timeless charm, lent by its colonial facades, sacred shrines, and bustling markets. Once the royal capital of the island, the city is surrounded by lush mountains and the serene Kandy Lake.
View from our hotel balcony
While there is no shortage of hotels near Kandy Lake, we decided to stay at a boutique accommodation — The Kandyan Villa, situated at an elevation and offering a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains. We had booked a mix of hotel rooms and a large 3-bedroom villa, and it worked out beautifully for our group. The swimming pool and a small playground in the premise were a real delight for the children. Although it involved a little bit of walking to the hotel as the last few metres of road were too narrow for our bus to navigate, the peaceful environment more than made up for the inconvenience.
Panoramic view from the hotel
Morning scene
Temple of the Tooth Relic
After a refreshing siesta in the hotel, we left for the Temple of the Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa), a revered site that draws pilgrims from across the globe. It houses one of Buddhism’s most sacred relics – a tooth believed to belong to Lord Buddha, brought to Sri Lanka in the 4th century AD.
Located beside the tranquil Kandy Lake, the temple is part of a royal palace complex and is adorned with intricate carvings and golden embellishments, though what attracted me more were the huge elephant tusks flanking the shrines. Since it is open daily from 5:30 AM to 8:00 PM, we had ample time to explore the premises.
Royal palace complex of Kandy
We engaged a guide at the entrance and soon we were weaving our way through the throng of tourists and local pilgrims, learning about various historical and spiritual significances. The guide informed us that while the temple remains open to the public on all days, it particularly comes alive during the annual Esala Perahera — a grand procession honouring the relic, held in the months of July and August.
Buddha flanked by elephant tusks, signifying royal protection
Pilgrims’ offerings at the temple shrine
Kandyan Cultural Performance
Next on the agenda was a one-hour cultural performance at the Kandy Lake Club, conveniently located adjacent to the temple. Our guide had already purchased tickets for us in advance. Since the show was scheduled to start promptly at 5 PM, we hurried to the venue, as, apparently, good seats tend to fill up quickly.
The show began with powerful rhythmic drumming, the artists soon joined by beautiful dancers in traditional attires. Each performance told a unique story through intricate movements, and honestly, I was struck by how much it resembled the traditional Gayan-Bayan performances from my home state, Assam. The show ended with a dramatic finale, where performers swallowed fire and walked over burning embers, sending chills down my spine.
Cultural performance at Kandy Lake Club
A memorable first day in Sri Lanka, indeed.
Take a look at the highlights here:
Dambulla Caves
The next morning we had a decision to make – it was a long day ahead that seemed quite strenuous and our friends with their 2 year-old decided to opt out of it. While the rest of the party would be leaving for the Dambulla caves and Sigiriya Rock, they would visit the Bahiravokanda Vihara Buddha statue, another prominent landmark in Kandy.
The Dambulla caves, also known as the Golden Temple of Dambulla owing to the beautiful temple at the base, lay 2.5 hours from Kandy. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this ancient complex comprises of five main caves, housing over 150 statues of the Buddha, along with exquisite murals. One had to climb around 364 steps to reach the caves – something that appeared to be a daunting task, and we left it to decide on the spot whether we were up for it.
On reaching, the first thing to catch our attention was the gleaming golden stupa at the entrance. A few steps away lay the Golden Temple of Dambulla, crowned by a huge Buddha statue, seated serenely atop a brightly painted building fringed with lotus-shaped structures, while statues of monks lined up to pay Him obeisance.
Stupa at Golden Temple, Dambulla
Golden Temple, Dambulla
With the sun shining hard upon us, climbing hundreds of steep steps to the caves in that blazing heat did not seem to be an attractive proposition. And so, we dropped the cave exploration plans. Instead, we clicked scores of photos in the picturesque temple premises and moved on towards Sigiriya.
The Sigiriya Rock Adventure
Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Sigiriya Rock – commonly referred to as Lion Rock, is the site of an ancient fortress and royal palace built atop a massive column of lava rock. Constructed in the 5th century by King Kasyapa, it presently holds the ruins of the king’s palace at its summit, offering breathtaking 360° views, while the base of the rock is dotted with beautiful symmetrical water gardens.
Remnants of ancient water gardens at the base of Sigiriya Rock
It is believed that the name Lion Rock comes from the massive stone-carved lion that once stood at the entrance to the upper palace. Today, only the lion’s paws remain, flanking the final staircase that leads to the summit. Archaeological work is still ongoing at Sigiriya to uncover and understand more of its ancient secrets.
Buying entry tickets at a discounted rate of USD 20 per head for holding Indian passports, we began our trek. About halfway through the Sigiriya climb, we reached a small detour that led to the famous frescoes of the celestial maidens. Except, we didn’t know it was a detour at that time – we thought we were moving towards the summit!
The journey commences. The Lion Rock coming into view gradually
The iconic Sigiriya Rock
Part of the trek through huge rocks
Check out the spiral staircase up on the rock face!
A narrow spiral staircase wound upward along the rock face. I decided to sit this one out, blaming the heat for my exhaustion, though the truth was, I was terrified of those stairs! After viewing the frescoes, a second spiral staircase brought back our group down to the main path where I was waiting, forming a short loop. Meanwhile, the day was getting hotter by the minute, and we unanimously voted to return – the summit could wait for another visit, another time.
View from the staircase
But wait, where were the famed lion’s paws – the ones we wanted to pose against and click our pictures?
It was only later that we realised we had missed Sigiriya’s most iconic sight —the lion’s paws, owing to taking the wrong route to the summit. Apparently, many visitors skip the frescoes as they require a short detour, yet we did the opposite and missed the main trail! To be fair, there were no clear signs pointing us in the right direction. And so, our Sigiriya adventure came to an end — slightly bungled, but memorable — as we drove back to Kandy, checking off the day’s itinerary.
Here’s my Instagram reel showcasing the day:
A Tight Yet Inclusive Itinerary
If you are planning a family trip to Sri Lanka and hoping to cover both Kandy and Sigiriya in 48 hours, I believe our itinerary could be a helpful guide. Just make sure to start early when visiting the Dambulla Caves and Sigiriya Rock, as the midday sun can be quite harsh and may throw off your plans. Hopefully, our experience will help you avoid the kind of hiccup we faced at Sigiriya—and make your journey to the summit a smoother and more rewarding one. Safe travels!
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