It was on a sunny December afternoon that we arrived at the charming town of Honnavar by the Arabian Sea, covering a distance of around 480 km in eight hours from Bengaluru. This was to be the first leg of our year-end trip in 2022, and a tranquil prelude to the gaiety that awaited us in Goa.
Located along the Karnataka coastline and ensconced between the more popular coastal towns of Udupi and Gokarna, Honnavar offered the perfect setting to relax and let down our hair after a hectic year of working around the clock, at home and in the office. A bit of online research had told us that besides the beach, Honnavar also had a beautiful waterfall, a suspension bridge, and an intricate network of backwaters with a thriving mangrove ecosystem, making for a diverse travel experience. It sounded splendid and we couldn’t wait to explore this relatively offbeat region enough!
The First Night
We had booked two nights’ stay at the Mayuri Eco Beach (Shanbhag Residency) hotel that was situated just off the beach, separated by wispy Casuarina trees and a shrubby undergrowth. The rooms were sufficiently comfortable, and the hotel had its own restaurant, open to both guests and the general public. We chose to have our lunch in another restaurant, reaching the hotel just as the sun was setting. Despite the late hour, we couldn’t resist running to the beach and having a dip in the sea with the backdrop of the crimson sun fast receding on the horizon. The beach seemed almost like a private property with just our families frolicking and scores of tiny crabs scurrying in the sand.
As the evening set in, the hotel arranged for a bonfire and soon we were sharing stories around the fireside, each getting more interesting than the other. It reminded me so much of winter evenings at my grandparents’ place in Assam where we would huddle around the fire after dinner to warm up our hands and feet, listening to horror stories told by mischievous cousins, and getting scared and thrilled at the same time.
We did experience similar feelings when, on a whim, we decided to pay a midnight visit to the beach. We treaded our way through the bushes walking in a single file, not daring to look behind us, for who knew if the person behind was actually the ‘real’ one. “I can hear someone’s footsteps behind me,” whispered our friend, and for a moment I thought we were stuck between the devil and the deep sea. Though spooky, the sea appeared inconspicuous enough, and while we laughed nervously at our own deed, some of us could be heard chanting the hanuman chalisa audibly on the way back to the hotel. So much for being adventurous!
The Many Attractions of the Backwaters
The next morning saw us wake up refreshed and early, ready to start off the vacation. We had arranged for a boat-ride along the backwaters of the Sharavati river the previous evening, and by 7.00 am we were at the place notified by the boatman. Our hotel manager had shared the contact for the boat, the cost coming to INR 2,500 for a duration of 2 hours.
The boat was a large one and could easily accommodate the ten of us. A cool breeze caressed our faces, the awakening sun’s rays dissipating the fragments of mist lingering over the water. Rows of coconut trees bordered the canal, and we passed by backyards of homes, the households gently stirring up from their slumber. Clusters of mangrove forest appeared from time to time, with little cormorants perched in their typical ‘Batman’ pose, while egrets went about the job of being early birds that caught the worms (fish, in this case) earnestly.
Soon the canal began to narrow down, and we found ourselves meandering through shallow waters that were thick with some aquatic plants. The boatman explained that they were water chestnut plants and water lilies that would open up when the sun grew stronger. In full bloom, the area would be filled with people coming for various photoshoots, particularly pre-wedding and post-wedding shoots. Thankfully, we were too early to see that happen.
Instead, we were privy to a wonderful vista of coconut groves, reminiscent of Kerala. We got down from the boat and walked a short distance through the arching trees, catching the sunrays now and then through the thick canopy. A small bridge over the canal provided a wide angled view of the entire area. There was already a small group of visitors waiting for their turn to click photographs from the vantage point.
Hundreds of photographs later, our tummies had started to register their complaints and we returned to our boat. The plan, after breakfast at the hotel, was to visit the famed Eco Beach of Honnavar.
Honnavar Eco Beach
The Eco Beach at Honnavar, previously known as Kasarkod Beach, is one of the few ‘Blue Flag’ certified beaches in India. A vast stretch of absolutely pristine beach stretched before us, with various informative displays promoting biodiversity conservation. Unlike other beaches, there were clean toilets and changing rooms, and a small number of makeshift cottages dotted the beach to provide respite from the harsh sun.
We spent some time playing in the sea, but the strong noon sun relentlessly beating down upon us led us to hasten our lunch plans. We had dined at a place called Romansiah Family Restaurant the previous day and had quite enjoyed the matka biryani there. By popular consensus, we decided to have our lunch at the same restaurant.
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