It was on a muggy, overcast day in May that we reached the southern city of Kochi in Kerala, travelling from the backwaters of Alleppey and Kumarakom, having started the journey in Bengaluru. Summer holidays were about to end, and we had to fit in a family vacation before the schools reopened. We decided to give Kerala, a long jinxed destination, another chance to redeem itself – especially after I had broken my leg there seven years ago.
All plans to explore Kochi vapourised the moment we checked into our resort and saw the gorgeous swimming pool winding through the property. As we dived into the pool, the sky that had been weighed down by its load of raindrops gave in, and soon we were swimming in rippling waters – grateful that we had decided to stay in that day.
The next morning, it was still gloomy, but the day looked promising enough to venture out towards Fort Kochi, located on the southwestern edge of the city.
History in the Morning
The first stop on our itinerary, enroute to Fort Kochi, was the beautiful Kerala Folklore Museum at Thevara, that showcased the thousands of artifacts painstakingly collected from across the southern part of the country by art collector George Thaliath. As explained by the staff there, the three storeys of the museum represented three major regional architectural styles – Malabar, Cochin and Tranvancore.
Taking off our shoes, we made our way through a maze of exquisitely carved statues, wooden pillars, Kalaripayattu weapons, ornate lamps, vessels and furniture, theyyam masks and musical instruments, gazing open-mouthed at the intricate detailing of each artifact. Some of the statues looked as though they once belonged to ancient temples and had found their way to the collection through a circuitous route. If only they could speak about the past, the era in which they were created!
After spending an hour at the museum, feeling what Alice might have felt in Wonderland, we decided to move on to our next destination. It is to be noted that visitors wishing to take photographs inside the complex are required to pay a small additional amount besides the entry fees.
Understanding Kochi’s Past at the Mattancherry Palace
We reached Mattancherry, crossing a few of the many bridges that criss-cross the city, briefly glimpsing the skeletal remains of giant Chinese fishing nets along the banks of the creeks. A light drizzle had begun when we climbed up the steps to the Mattancherry Palace, also known as the Dutch Palace.
Interestingly, it was originally built by the Portuguese in 1555 as a gift to the Raja of Cochin to gain trading privileges. The Dutch later defeated the Portuguese in 1663, and renovated the palace, thus gaining ascendancy over its name. Today, visitors are allowed inside the premises for a fee, with the caveat that selfies are not allowed in the rooms housing murals.
The first object to attract our attention was the royal palanquin at the entry, beyond which we came upon stunning mural paintings that covered entire walls, depicting scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. There were also large display boards providing detailed information about the lives and history of the royal family of Cochin, along with their royal robes, weapons, and portraits.
It was interesting to note their stand towards the British colonisers and India’s freedom struggle. Unlike other princely states, the royal family of Cochin was not involved actively in the nationalist movement, choosing to be rather pragmatic in their approach. Perhaps the Mattancherry Palace is a befitting testimony to the region’s former rulers’ stance – its architecture showcasing a blend of local and foreign craftsmanship, offering a glimpse into both Kerala’s royal and colonial past.
When Hunger Strikes in Fort Kochi
Post such heavy discourse with the historical side of Kochi, we were famished but I knew exactly where I wanted to go. I had done my research on Fort Kochi’s top eateries (of course, I would do that). It was to be a two part lunch – the larger course at the Francis restaurant and desserts and coffee at Kashi Art Café.
Francis was a charming little hole-in-the-wall bar and restaurant, adjacent to the famous Princess Street, with just a handful of tables for its patrons. But the food was outstanding — especially as the menu resonated with the rainy weather. In case you visit the place, do try their signature sausages and Kerala style pork fry – you won’t be disappointed.
We were glad to walk off our heavy lunch as we made our way to Kashi Art Café, known for its decadent chocolate cake. A fine rain accompanied our walk through Princess Street, yet we stopped now and then to admire its quaint heritage homes, art galleries, curio shops, and a lively assortment of bakeries and bookstores.
Hot coffee and a decadent slice of chocolate cake arrived at our table in the delightful café, resplendent with its art-filled setting and a tranquil little courtyard. The place definitely had a vibe – no wonder it had become a traveller’s favourite in the area.
An Unexpected Adventure!
We had booked our seats for a Kathakali show in the evening, but with around two hours to spare before the performance began, we decided to take a drive around Kochi’s own Marine Drive — a scenic road that runs beside a waterfront promenade along the backwaters. Lofty residential towers lined the waterfront, offering grand views and a host of luxurious amenities. The real estate researcher in me couldn’t help but take note of the rapid development shaping the area.
Soon, it was time to turn around, and after entering the cultural centre’s address into Google Maps, we followed the directions on the car’s dashboard screen. En route, we passed by the International Container Transshipment Terminal, also known as the Vallarpadam Terminal – India’s first transshipment hub, and undeniably a cornerstone of India’s maritime infrastructure.
As we moved ahead, we found ourselves entering slow-moving traffic. Being from Bengaluru, it didn’t bother us much — until we realised we were in a lane meant for vehicles taking the ferry from Vypin to Fort Kochi! We hadn’t realised that Google Maps was leading us through the water. With no option to turn back, I barely had time to buy the ferry tickets and jump back into the car as it drove up the ramp onto the ferry.
The moment the ferry roared to life to make the short trip across the river, a sudden storm stirred up. Leaves and twigs came flying in the stormy darkness, pelting our windscreen, and I felt the ferry tilt ever so slightly. A heavy downpour followed, even as strong winds and rains lashed against our cars. Images of vehicles slipping into the water and sinking slowly into the inky depths flashed before my eyes. I think I forgot to breathe during those eight minutes it took to reach the Fort Kochi ferry jetty from Vypin. And just as our ferry slid into the jetty, the storm died down — as suddenly as it had appeared. Incredible.
Closing the Eventful Day with a Kathakali Performance
While booking the Kathakali performance, we realised that there was more than one cultural centre that held such shows. We opted for the Great K V Kathakali Centre – one of the most respected cultural venues in the city, located near the Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica in Fort Kochi. It runs daily, typically from 5 pm to 7 pm, the time duration split into make‑up demonstration (5–6 pm) and Kathakali performance (6–7 pm).
Walking up a flight of stairs, we reached a small auditorium where the performers were getting their makeup done. A beautiful, Kerala-style setting formed the backdrop for the performance. We were handed a copy of the dance drama that was to be performed, explaining the characters and storyline — quite helpful for those unfamiliar with the Indian epics. Before the actual performance began, the master of ceremonies explained key mudras and emotions, throwing in a few light-hearted moments to the explanation.
Shortly after, the dancers came on stage, and we were left mesmerised with the brilliant gestures and the facial expressions that told a story from the Mahabharata without a word being spoken. We then understood the significance of the previous session. An ensemble of skilled musicians and a vocalist accompanied the drama, each contributing their own nuance to the cultural experience. As the performance ended, we found ourselves applauding wholeheartedly for these artists striving to keep their art alive.
And with that, our short — yet meaningful (and not without adventure!) — itinerary in Fort Kochi came to a close. Over the course of the day, we had managed to absorb the essence of this quaint port town: stepping back in time, uncovering layers of its rich cultural heritage and understanding its deep colonial imprint.
As we drove back to our hotel, the rain drummed gently on the car roof — a fitting musical finale to our time in this historic town.
PS: The monsoons are underway, so do keep a tab on the weather forecast for red alerts if you are planning to visit Fort Kochi during the rainy season.
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